Next time, we’ll break down the light dry dropper system, where it shines and where it fails. I suppose it depends on where your goals and interests lie, but if you like fishing nymphs under a dry, then you’ve surely wished the dry fly was easily re-positioned without tying more knots. So what I’m saying is similar to what I wrote above. In that case, I’m focusing on getting a perfect dead drift with the dry. It it can’t slide without much friction, then the line will be damaged. https://allwaterguides.com/blog/2013/12/9/i-got-bored-tied-up-some-leaders-then-decided-to-write-about-it. I primarily use a Thomas and Thomas Contact 1103 three-weight nymph rod with a mono rig instead of fly line. I should also mention, after a lot of sliding throughout the day, the Backing Barrel may need to be replaced. This is a style most tolerable for the dries only crew — for the guy who’s screen name is @dryflyguy. Two key elements make up the system: a Backing Barrel and a tag dropper loop. When placed, the dropper's output will face in the direction it was placed from. There is a way . It feel the weight of the nymph and is in contact, with no lag on the strike. Create a small perfection loop in a short piece of 4X. If it can’t slide easily enough when playing larger fish, then line damage occurs. I’ve logged some hours this season fishing dry-droppers on my Euronymphing setup. Also, I like the way the dropper spins around the standing leader when I do an oval-type cast, and so wraps less that if tied off a tippet ring, or a surgeon’s knot, and held in place, so to speak. But it won’t work for everyone, of that I’m sure. Bill, About the split shot and Backing Barrel. You are right. Using this system seems to work on tippet size down to 5x and if you are familiar with the NZ wool it extremely fast to setup. Thanks! A friend of mine once described a truly slidable, easily movable, dry dropper as the Holy Grail of fly fishing. As I mentioned above, I like to mount the dry fly on 3x fluoro, and I occasionally will go to 4X. Wipe that off with a little river mud before attaching a Backing Barrel. But in my experience, the cost is negligible. SRAM Butter, Slick Honey, Wet Seal, Silicon Shine, etc.) I decided to give the CFC a trial run at some slow, bubbly water. Join Troutbitten and follow along. Thus destroying the dry fly presentation. But yes, I do acknowledge that the front end of some flies can go nose down, changing the look. Jul 23, 2018 - Don’t let the elements hold you back from the things you love to do, we’ve got… I do that often enough. Hey Domenick, thanks for writing this! It’s a slight compromise with the principle of one diameter under the water. Because, dammit, I just want to fish. Fly Fishing Devon is run by qualified game angling instructors: Geoff Stephens and Paul Kenyon. Lead. . Jul 6, 2017 - "A friend of mine once described a truly slidable, easily movable, dry dropper as the Holy Grail of fly fishing. All of these elements are intertwined. It’s also extremely effective when trout are already near the surface, or in low water. Here are a few tips that I’ve found helpful: It pays to experiment with leaders and tactics. Good anglers understand that consistently meeting the fish with a nymph on the bottom of the river (or elsewhere in the water column), requires frequent adjustments for depth. As promised, here is the drop shot system set up, and how to attach a sliding dropper loop. And while this is also one of the most common questions I’ve fielded through the years, it has a complex answer that I’ve never tackled in an article. When it does slide, often from the weight of a heavy fish, it rarely causes line damage on 3X fluorocarbon. . That was an excellent article! That’s what matters. The trout eat the dry in this rig a lot, especially when fishing tight line to the dry on the Mono Rig. One question I do have is why 12# mono vs 18# or 20#, and is it a stiff mono like Maxima? . . Exercise program after surgery. Since the dry fly is being used as an indicator, if a fish takes the underwater nymph, I would think there would be some time lapse (short) before the dry fly would get pulled under since there is a 3 to 4 inch distance between it and the main piece of tippet. I checked out the “two diameter solution” article you linked to. Understand the length, thickness and weight of your leader’s butt section. Postfly is #allyouneed to get out there and catch more fish. Sometimes the tag and barrel slide down while fighting a fish. I suppose it depends on where your goals and interests lie, but if you like fishing nymphs under a dry, then you’ve surely wished the dry fly was easily re-positioned without tying more knots.… The tippet ring to the bottom dropper makes it easy for me to tie, avoiding a tippet/tippet knot in favor of a couple double Davy’s. But it’s an interesting concept. Tight lines, and enjoy our precious resources. With this set-up, I’m able to cast a dry-dropper rig comfortably and accurately out to about 25′ depending on conditions. We … Oct 10, 2017 - The Barbless Grayling Selection, is a selection of 4 of the most popular styles of weighted grayling nymphs, we supply two of each nymph in two sizes. What if there was a dropper post, that actually solves and not just improves reliability issues, saves cost and time on the long run, and does not let you worry about too much time spent at service-centers? I’ve never used the Dacron backing material though. Be sure the tippet is wet before sliding the Backing Barrel. You’ll have to experiment to see what flies work with the size of the tubing, I’ve mostly done this with stonefly and large hopper dries in sizes 8-6. Along the way, I’ve cataloged a few observations that I thought would make for decent blog content and might be helpful, especially to those starting out or experimenting with their tightline or Euronymphing game. . I used black backing for a while. The dry fly had no freedom of movement. Often, that doesn’t matter one bit. If the specimen is observed without water, in a dry condition, then the resolution and image quality may not be sufficiently high. I already have the Backing Barrel mounted on the first two feet below my sighter because I use it as a visual extension of my sighter to track the drift. I’m always learning and often entertained. I fish for wild brown trout in the cool limestone waters of Central Pennsylvania year round. And with the faster current near the surface, it may push that 3x section along faster than the 4x/5x section below it which is probably in slower current. It slides a foot or so down to the 4X or 5X junction and stays there during the fight. The only time I try for a dry dropper rig with 5x to the dry is when I am just going to drop a very light or unweighted soft hackle wet or a nymph a short distance behind. And that doesn’t work for me. In terms of fly selection, I look for a dry fly with enough buoyancy to float a nymph or two with a decent probability of raising a fish. Yep, still avail: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkrnqcxNSMw. Regarding the 4″ of a backing loop, I feel that it would be too heavy, especially when waterlogged. Those do float well with the payload off the bend. I know I need to experiment more with this but was curious as to your experience. I do like your idea of a “backing barrel” to prevent split shot slippage without deliberately tying a knot. Nice. Shortcomings are the limited size of dry flies that can be used, the nose-tilted down dry presentation, and the wear and tear on the line, especially if you over-tighten or get impatient when adjusting the depth. That’s an excellent point, and I completely agree. Your email address will not be published. Yes, it makes complete sense. Your website is a fantastic source of information and if I may say, very aesthetically pleasing. Family. Dry flies make great suspenders because they float, trout eat them, and they have a hook. Domenick Swentosky T R O U T B I T T E N domenick@troutbitten.com. Nothing works form me all the time. Primarily for a second subsurface dropper. I can high-stick the dry fly very effectively with this rig in order to achieve a drag-free drift in pocket water and other situations of challenging current. . However, the extra inches of 3X, in this example, are a small concession to have the convenience of a sliding dry. Nevertheless, quick adjustments are essential to cover water effectively. I’ll remember that next time I tie on a dry with a dropper. It’s a great way to keep in touch. I remember reading an article by Winston Cundiff back in 2013 about the use of backing barrels to change the position of thingamabobbers. Sure, it puts weight up front, but that works really well with parachutes and klinkhammers. Do you feel the tag systems are that more productive than simple stacking,is it worth the effort? Of course everything matters, and even a few inches has an effect. If we are concerned enough with making the system slidable, then we’re probably going deeper than a foot under the water. It seems like it would work well. Perhaps using 4x to the nymph will be a compromise to mitigate the effects of the two diameters since it is one diameter less than the 3x. But it does have one flaw. I’m sure one “imperfection” of that system was pigtailing from the dry sliding during a fight, as well. Good one, it’s very simple. The best suspenders (indicators that support weight) slide easily up and down the leader to change the maximum depth that the nymph can reach below. It’s a quick addition to the line, adds no significant weight and serves as a stopper for the tag dropper. So let’s fix that. And here is a way to rig it. A final note on the dry-dropper: I’ve found it to be an excellent reconnaissance tool. Ultimately, I’ve found that it comes down to the type of fly. I have fished some with a static dry fly tied to the tag of a blood knot left long when i wanted to have the dry fly hook totally exposed (no tippet off the bend), but still have a nymph down, to good effect. Instead of a backing barrel, you could make a loop of around 4” of backing with a blood knot, and then prusik knot(~5 wraps) that loop onto the 3X section of leader. But in reality, the weight of the nymph is on the dry, through the tag, much like described in this article: https://troutbitten.com/2019/09/10/three-styles-of-dry-dropper-3-tight-line-dry-dropper/. This setup involves using a tiny piece of a rubber hose and a bite/loop of the leader going through the hose and capturing any amount of wool, when the leader is pulled tight the loop and wool are then pulled through the rubber hose and the indicator is trimmed to preference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BawK1YzmKLY Now with the slidable dry, the tag is tied to the loop before you pull it back through. I’ll be trying my second idea this weekend if conditions allow and see if I can get it to work without having to use a backing barrel stopper. Properly executed, the dry does the job of leading the nymph down one current seam. Hier bekommt ihr alles rund ums Thema vaporisiere… I saved the best for last. Tuck. This is my home, and I love it. And be nice. 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